Friday, June 24, 2011

6.8 mi 4161 ft down


It was 35˚ at the North Kaibab Trailhead when we started hiking; before we arrived at Cottonwood at 2:00PM, it was 104˚. "Start early" was the advice I had read for surviving the June heat below the rim. I arranged for the shuttle to take us the 2 miles from North Canyon Lodge to the trailhead at 5:30AM. Arrange the shuttle to the trailhead when checking in at the lodge. I found out the next day there was was a guide who arranged a 4:30AM shuttle for his crew on the same day we hiked to Cottonwood while visiting with the guide's crew of noisy, exuberant girls in the Phantom Ranch Canteen the next day. Be more assertive; ask more questions; a lesson I am still learning.
With a trail breakfast of beef jerky and granola bars in our pockets, we were on the trail by 6:15AM. First day on the trail is always a bit slow, adjusting packs, learning what not to bury in the bottom of your pack.
Our crew carried 2 or 3 liter water bladders and a 1 liter Nalgene bottle each. Bladders allow sipping water continuously and an electrolyte drink in the bottle. Drink some Gatorade when you need an extra boost. Hike wet. Start early. Take breaks.
I should have followed that advice.



By mile 5, the outside of my left knee was killing me. I don't know what happened with water/salt/food/electrolyte mix, but I got it wrong the first day. We took an extended lunch at the pumphouse. (Hiker's restroom is on the porch. It is stocked with TP, but they do run out. Be prepared.) We rested in the shade, ate, drank Gatorade, and I took an Aleve. I wet my shirt and head before we left the pumphouse.


Arriving at Cottonwood at 2:00PM, I was nauseated, and my legs felt like lead. We rested in the shade at the ranger's cabin(no ranger), spent a little time in the creek, and some more time resting in the shade. Returning to our campsite, I was very thankful to find that the canyon and trees had made us some shade (there is not much shade at Cottonwood) and the rest of the crew were doing the chores. Tents were up. With no chance of rain and wanting to take advantage of any cooling breeze, Mark and I opted for no rain fly. I crawled in my tent and stayed on my NeoAir until the risotto was ready. Thank you, Connie for making me dinner. I was only able to eat 1/2 of my dinner. Sad because whatever wasn't eaten had to be packed out in its re-hydrated form. By 11:00PM, I was pretty sure I was going to live and finally was brave enough to chug 1/2 of a liter of Gatorade. Should have started sipping the Gatorade as well as the water much earlier and immersed myself in the creek to cool off.
It was a clear starry night with a bright half-moon framed by the canyon walls.
Everyone survived day 1, and day 2 would prove to be much easier.







Monday, June 20, 2011

The Plan

Grand Canyon Itinerary 2011

Monday, June 6 Confirm with Backcountry Office from 1-5, (928) 638 2125 and Phantom Ranch at Bright Angel Wednesday.

Tuesday, June 7 Travel Day (Gallup, MN, 741 miles, 12 hours)

Breakfast: Home and/or fast food

Lunch: *Deli and fruit

Dinner: Restaurant

Wednesday, June 8 Travel Day(Grand Canyon Village, AZ, 264 miles, 4 hours 27 min.)

Breakfast: Hotel or fast food

Lunch: *Deli and fruit

Dinner: (Mather Campground) Malaysian grilled chicken, ginger-garlic rice, cucumber

Thursday, June 9 Catch Trans-Canyon Shuttle to North Rim 928/638-2820 Departs South Rim at 1:30 PM and arrives at 6:00 PM. Fare is $80 one way. Reserved 3/19. #3946 Paid $160. $160 due by check or cash. Be at Bright Angel Lobby at 1:00PM.

North Rim Rim-Side Pioneer Cabin – 2 rooms connected by ¾ bath with shower. 1 queen bed and 2 twins. At check-in arrange shuttle to trailhead.

Breakfast: *Bagel, cream cheese, shelf stable bacon, OJ, coffee w/ powdered milk IN CABIN, tea (make lunch)

Lunch: *Chicken/bacon wraps with dinner leftovers, chips, orange

Dinner: 7:15 North Rim Lodge Dining Room/ Dinner reservations on the North Rim 938 628 2611.

Friday, June 10 Hike 6.8 mi 4161ft.

Complimentary Trailhead Shuttle – reserve Thursday at check in.

Breakfast: Jerky, granola bar, dried apples

Lunch: Pepperoni, cheese, crackers, cookies

Dinner: Creamy Parmesan Risotto, cookies, Cottonwood Campground

Saturday, June 11 Hike 7.3 mi 1600ft.

Breakfast: Peanut butter/jelly wraps, jerky, dried apricot

Lunch: Tuna, crackers, ginger snaps

Dinner: Stew Dinner at Phantom Ranch 6:30PM

Sunday, June 12 Rest day on canyon floor

Breakfast: Phantom Ranch 6:30A.M.

Lunch: Jerky, cheese sticks, crackers, dried pineapple

Dinner: Steak Dinner at Phantom Ranch 5:00PM

Monday, June 13 Hike 4.7mi. 1320ft.

Breakfast: Breakfast at Phantom Ranch 5:00A.M.

Lunch: Tuna, crackers, Cookies

Dinner: Salmon, Rice Noodles, Cookies, Dried Fruit Indian Gardens Campground

Tuesday, June 14 Hike 4.6mi. 3060ft.

Bright Angel Lodge Cabin 1 - 2 room duplex Check in 4:00PM at Bright Angel Lodge Check out 11:00AM

Breakfast: Granola bars, sunflower seeds, raisins, no cook – trail breakfast; get up at 4:30 and beat the heat

Lunch: Almond Chicken Apricot Wrap, pretzel sticks, peanut butter packets, Pay Day bars

Dinner: ??

Wednesday, June 15

Thunderbird Lodge 1 room (partial view) 2 queen beds Check in 4:00PM at Bright Angel Lodge Check out 11:00AM

Breakfast:??

Lunch:??

Dinner: Driving from Albuquerque, Erin and Jay will join us at some point. Dinner at El Tovar 8:15.

Thursday, June 16 Travel Day/Stay somewhere??

Friday, June 17 Travel Day Drive home

Point of No Return - The Shuttle

A little better today when I looked over the edge. I will keep my eyes on the trail – good idea anyway as gawking can lead to stumbles. What it comes down to is my fear of heights is not going to keep me from having this experience.

We are taking a Transcanyon Shuttle http://www.trans-canyonshuttle.com/ to North Rim. $80 per person leaving from Bright Angel Lodge at 1:30PM and arriving at South Rim at 6:00PM. Our shuttle driver Steve was very knowledgeable about the geology of the area. We had reservations for for dinner at Grand Canyon Lodge Dining Room. Wow. Beautiful setting, great company, great dinner. I almost forgot my nervousness.

We stayed in a rim-side Pioneer Cabin. Reserve rim lodging 1 year in advance of your trip. Too bad we had to be up and out by 5:00AM in order to catch our complimentary shuttle to the trailhead. North Kaibab Trailhead is 2 miles from the lodge. Reserve shuttle when checking into rooms.

According to Steve, North Kaibab and Bright Angel are superhighways of trails. I know trails, but I was still nervous.






Saturday, June 18, 2011

1st View of the Canyon


Planning without reconnaissance can get a person in trouble. I may be. My first look into the abyss makes me dizzy, and I want to be no closer to the edge of the canyon than my full height which will be problematic if I will be hiking the trails of the inner canyon for 5 days. I tried walking down Bright Angel Trail on which we would be ending our hike, but with 36 mile per hour wind gusts and no hiking poles and the dizzying heights, I couldn't do it. I turned back before the first switchback. I still thought I could do it with the hiking poles, but I spent the rest of the evening stewing about the crazy hubris of my plan. I'm not exactly full of confidence upon beginning anything new. Fear of the unknown gets to me.
I knew I had planned well. Know thy enemy. After reading Ghiglieri and Myers' Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon, environmental causes of death(the heat), falls, rock falls, flash floods, lightening strikes, drowning, freak accidents, and venomous creatures(that covers it) top my list of fears. I probably don't have to worry about murder...unless I annoy my fellow hikers.
I read other hikers' blogs. I learned from their regrets. We will have 5 days and 4 nights below the rim to make this a safe and enjoyable experience. I think I can, I think I can...

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Rim to Rim

Fifty deserved something big. The national parks are on our life list, and I like to research and plan which lead to this quest. Googling "hiking the Grand Canyon" I got the idea for a rim to rim hike. There are guide services and outfitters out there who make this trip happen for many, but for me with a husband who has 45 years of backpacking experience and my own 7 years of hiking experience, the National Park Service and Grand Canyon Association websites, blogs written by individuals and former employees of the park service, I began to plan my own itinerary. I bought a trail map and Over the Edge, Death in the Canyon (know thy enemy) from the Grand Canyon Association and ordered a Backcountry Trip Planner from the NSP.

http://www.grandcanyonassociation.org/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GCA&Product_Code=M40815&Category_Code=HIKING

http://www.grandcanyonassociation.org/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GCA&Product_Code=M20739&Category_Code=TRIP

http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/backcountry-permit.htm

Our crew consisted of fairly fit people aged 51 - 60, so we chose a rim to rim hike from North Kaibab to Bright Angel. A 6.8 mile 4161' elevation loss on day 1. Camp at Cottonwood. A 7.3 mile 1600' elevation loss on day 2. Camp at Bright Angel for the men and Phantom Ranch for the women. Space at Phantom and on the rims must be reserved 1 year in advance starting on the 1st day of the month during which you will stay. We were able to secure 2 spots in the women's dorm for 2 nights so that we could have a day of rest on the canyon floor, 2 days of breakfasts, and 2 days dinners at Phantom. Backcountry campsites can be reserved 4 months in advance beginning the 1st of the month 4 months before your requested dates. Those are hard to get. The Backcountry Office considers all requests received by fax on the 1st day of the month 4 months before the trip on a random basis. Last year we were unsuccessful and had to cancel all of our Phantom and rim reservations. I knew how I wanted to do this and rim to river in one day was not it. This year we were successful and got our backcountry campsite permits. After a day of rest on day 3 on the canyon floor, we would hike 4.7 miles with a 1320' elevation gain to camp at Indian Gardens on day 4. On day 5 we would hike 4.6 with an elevation gain of 3060' to the South Rim. Corridor trails, regular water sources, an extra day to rest seemed reasonable for 4 people with no canyon experience. An itinerary with no regrets. Time to enjoy the experience.